Sunday, April 2, 2017

Моє місто - Чернігів (My city - Chernihiv)

Hello from Chernihiv, Ukraine!

First things first: I am required to say, "the content of this website is mine alone and does not necessarily reflect the views of the U.S. Government, the Peace Corps, or the Ukrainian Government.”

Okay! Onward with the blog.

When I was taken under consideration for Peace Corps Ukraine, I knew of exactly one Ukrainian city: the capital, Kyiv. That's where we flew into, but so far I have only seen the airport. My group - PC Ukraine Group 51 - is spending 3 months in Chernihiv, a smaller city about 2 hours to the northeast, for Pre-Service Training (PST). Look at the tippity-top of the map below, and you'll find it. 

I got this image HERE (citing sources is important, y'all)

I would say that Chernihiv and Kyiv have a healthy rivalry going (perhaps from back in the 11th-century golden age of Kyivan-Rus, when both Kyiv and Chernihiv were principalities?) To this day, people in these cities disagree about which city was built first, and which one has the oldest cathedral. Both cities are over 1,000 years old - although my host mom insists that Chernihiv was definitely here first. 

Transfiguration Cathedral was built in the 1030's and is the oldest building in Chernihiv.
Photo cred: My picture, don't steal it.  

White plaster was added some decades ago, but sections of the 1000-year-old original brick-and-stone construction are still visible. 

Chernihiv has a marvelous historical district called the Val, from the Ukrainian word for "ramparts." In Medieval times, Chernihiv was a walled city protected by a fortress. The fortress is gone now, replaced by a lovely brick walkway lined with cannons that make for great photo-ops. It's the kind of place where one goes strolling with a good friend and an ice cream cone (or hot chocolate at this time of year). Also - yes, you are absolutely allowed to climb on the cannons. It's great. 

The view from the Val.

This is one of the small cannons. Somewhere out in cyberspace, there may lurk a picture of me climbing on one about three times this size.
Thanks Laura-Ashley for indulging my need to take a cheesy tourist photo. 

While Chernihiv definitely has plenty of appeal to the history nerds among us, it also offers most of the diversions of modern life. The Latin dance scene is pretty solid - plenty of opportunities to social dance and take lessons in salsa, bachata, zouk, and kizomba. I've been out dancing twice so far, and aim to go again this coming week. 

A salsa line dance at a party to celebrate Viva La Vida, a dance studio in Chernihiv that just passed the 6-year mark since its founding. Happy sixth birthday, Viva La Vida! 
There is evidence! I went dancing! This was at a venue called SkyDance. 
Photo cred: SkyDance friends, help me out here.
If you know who was the photographer on March 24th, 2017, let me know so I can credit him. 

There is a craft brewery in town, although I have not tried it. I've been too busy enjoying some soul-satisfying Lviv-style hot chocolate at a place whose name I'd rather not transliterate, so I'll just write it in Ukrainian - Льівська Майстерня Шоколаду

Say it with me: Chocolate Is Life.

There are plenty of other things to write about - our language courses, our meetings with various agencies and organizations, our nerves about site placement interviews next week, ongoing memorials for the soldiers who continue to be lost on the eastern front - but for now I'll keep it short and sweet. Although in June I will most likely be moving to another part of Ukraine, Chernihiv is my first Ukrainian hometown and I wanted to share it with you all. 





1 comment:

  1. A nice intro to Чернігів! I hadn't realised it was as old as Kиїв and the Val is stunning. You certainly hit the ground running with getting into the dance scene already. I'm curious how good your Ukrainian language skills were before landing there. I guess you'll be mentioning it in one of your posts ...

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